Hands On

NOV/DEC 2003
Volume 46/Issue 6

Project Articles
California Dream Toys
The Mantel Clock
Christmas Tree Ornaments

Ask Smitty
Owner’s Gallery
Letters from Owners
Academy Notes
Clean Cuts - Pt. 3 - All About Router Bits
Service Pointers
MARK V Saw Guards
Safety Tips
Proper Workshop Lighting

What's New
When accuracy counts Incra Rules

Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You

National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH

Online Accessory Catalog
Request Printed Accessory Catalog
Online Replacement Parts Catalog

Find A Shopsmith
MARK V Demo Near You

Request MARK V Information Package

Links Worth Visiting
Free Woodworking Tips

Contacting Shopsmith

Copyright 2003.
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved


Ask Smitty No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the
special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

If you're having a problem setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.

Printer friendly PDF copy of article

Affixing old sanding discs
From John Olson, via email:
I have some old Sanding Discs for my 12" Disc Sander that I would like to use...and I need a supplier who sells the glue to apply them with. If you know of any, it would be appreciated.

My recommendation is that you use artist's rubber cement. Be sure to “butter” the surface of the steel disk and the surface of the sandpaper. Allow both to dry thoroughly (probably 15 minutes or so). Then put the two together and press firmly to adhere them. To remove, use rubber cement thinner (the best brand is “Bestine”).


Preventing “unsquare” jointed edges
From Pamela Oeschger, via email:
I recently purchased a jointer and am having problem getting the technique down for getting square edges. It seems my boards are narrower on the ends and thicker in the middle when I am running them through the machine. I have checked all my adjustments and believe they are correct, I think the problem is in my technique of feeding the boards through. I would appreciate any advice you may offer.

First of all, it's vital that you maintain a constant, even, downward pressure throughout the cut...and on both ends of the board. Be sure the FeatherGuard is adjusted to provide adequate pressure against the face (or edge) of the board...forcing it into the fence so it can't move away during the cut.

If you're right-handed, start by licking your fingers (for “traction”) and positioning both hands (always use push blocks, if possible) on top of the leading end of the board. Maintain a steady downward pressure on your left hand as you use your right hand to “walk” the board through the cut.

IMPORTANT: Be sure that all downward pressure is exerted downward on the INFEED table (ahead of [BEFORE] the cutterhead). If you start to push down on the board over the top of the OUTFEED table, it will tend to lift the board off the surface of the INFEED table, causing the taper cutting you're talking about.

As you get toward the outfeed end of the board, begin to shift your right hand to the end of the board to provide forward pressure as you leave your left hand on top to provide the necessary downward pressure. Let the FeatherGuard maintain your inward pressure as you continue to provide steady downward pressure.

Another thing that could easily be affecting your cuts is having your Jointer Knives set too low. They should protrude from .001" to .003" above the surface of the outfeed table when properly set. If this isn't the case on your Jointer, this is your problem. Your Jointer Owner's Manual explains how to set them properly.

Continue . . .

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