Hands On

Volume 48/Issue 3

Project Articles
The English Flip-Top Chair-Table
The Oval Magazine Rack
Laminated Wooden Domino Set

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Letters from Owners

Academy Notes
Joinery - Solving the Puzzle
Service Pointers
MARK V as a Table Saw

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Ask Smitty No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the
special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!

If you're having a problem setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
Call TOLL-FREE, 1-800-762-7555 during normal business hours to speak directly with a Shopsmith Technical Support Representative.

Printer friendly PDF copy of article (18K)

"Wondering" Bandsaw Circle-Cutter
From Scott Hampton via email:
I am having trouble with my new Circle Cutting jig that I bought for my Bandsaw. I followed the directions...attaching it to my Bandsaw, and my first circle cut came out great. But now it won't cut a circle. It seems that the jig keeps pulling the wood towards the inside of the Bandsaw, drawing the Bandsaw blade further and further into the center of the wood, creating what I have named the "Big Spring Effect". It also bends the Bandsaw blade and pulls the blade out of the guides...then the blade sometimes jams into the wood so bad the whole machine stops. Any suggestions you can give on how to correct this problem would be greatly appreciated.

There are three possible answers to your problem:

1: Since you managed to cut the first circle successfully, I believe that the most likely answer is that something has moved the center point of the jig off center with the blade teeth. As instructed, the center MUST be at the tips of the blade teeth, not in front or behind the tips. There is a setscrew (ref.#11, part number 517089) in the clamp (ref.#9, part number 516157) that stabilizes the clamp on the vertical arm (ref.#1, part number 516375). I suspect that this setscrew is not tight against the vertical arm. This setscrew must be loosened and then re-tightened with each-and-every diameter change to keep the center pin (ref.#4, part number 516156) stable.

2: The bolts (ref.#35, part number 426367) that hold the table (ref.#87, part number 516113) to the trunions (ref.#37, part number 502675) are loose. This would cause the relationship between the pivot point and the blade teeth to shift thus causing this "Big Spring Effect".

3: There could be a blade lead problem caused (possibly) by not having the upper back-up roller adjusted close enough to the blade back and wiping off the blade tooth set. In order to have the guides wipe the set from only one side of the blade, to cause this lead problem, one of the four blade guides has to be way out of position both front-to-back and side-to-side. I think this is unlikely. Hopefully, one of these is the correct answer.


Re-sizing bed frames
From Cindy Brooks. via email:
I have an antique (double-size) 4- poster bed and would like to convert it to a queen size. There isn't room for me to enlarge the slats. Is it possible to make a double into a queen size?

Without seeing the bed, I would guess that lengthening the bed will be a simple matter of making longer side rails and staining them to match. Hardware for attaching the rails to the head and foot boards is readily available from many of the woodworking catalogers.

However, IF the head and foot boards are serving as end rails...and the side rails attach directly to them...making this change will involve widening these, which could be a lot more difficult. One way might be to "sister" some matching wood blocks to the outer sides of the head and foot boards, stain them to match and use some new hardware to attach the longer side rails.

Double mattresses are 54" x 75" - while queen-size mattresses are typically 60" x 80".

If you use this approach, the finished bed could look a little strange, considering the fact that the actual head and foot boards will be somewhat narrower than the bed itself. But, with a width difference of only 5", it could also look OK. You'll have to decide that.

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