July/August 2006
Volume 49
Issue 4
Archived Project Plans
IN THIS ISSUE
Project Articles
woodworking Plan The Gateleg Table Plan
woodworking Plan All American Picnic Table Plan
woodworking Plan Slanted Gourmet Knife Block Plan
 
DEPARTMENTS
woodworking Plan Owners Gallery
woodworking plans Ask Smitty
 
Academy Notes
Basic Drawer Construction Tips
 
Service Pointers
Keep Your Thickness Planer Running Smoothly
 
What's New
Urethane Bandsaw Tire 
 
EDUCATION
woodworking plans Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You
woodworking plans National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH
 
ONLINE CATALOGS
woodworking plans Online Accessory Catalog
woodworking plans Request Printed Accessory Catalog
 
LINKS
woodworking plans Links Worth Visiting
woodworking plans Free Woodworking Tips
 
FEEDBACK
Contacting Shopsmith
 
Copyright 2006
Shopsmith, Inc.
All Rights Reserved
 
 

 

 
 
 
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No woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time, everyone hits a
snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry. SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link directly below to send your questions to SMITTY. He'll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.

          Click here to email Smitty

Here are the questions…and SMITTY's answers for this issue…

Hollow chisel mortising problems

From George F.
(e-mail question -- city/state unknown)

I have a brand new mortising kit for my MARK V. The instructions say that I am supposed to have between 1" and 1-1/4" of the adjustable sleeve showing below the quill attachment. If I do that, the drill bits don't fully seat in the chuck. Am I doing something wrong?
Also, I am having a terrible time getting this new tool to cut proper mortises. Even if I predrill the holes with a normal bit, they still don't want to cut the ends, especially without excessive force. Got any tips?

Sounds like you have an older MARK V. The chucks are different. Don't worry about the 1" to 1/4" measurements. Just move the bit up until everything seats as described in the instructions.

My guess is that (much of your problem comes from) the MARK V table is moving as you attempt to cut. If you have an older Model 500 machine, either put a 2" x 4" or a Shopsmith Table Support leg (Part # 555627) under the Table while using the Mortising set-up. This will keep the Table from flexing while you're working. If you have a Model 510 or 520, use your Telescoping Support Legs to support the table.

Workbench help needed

From M. Allen
El Cajon, CA

Just bought a home in San Diego (ouch) and want to build a very basic, very sturdy (read, stand on, sit on, work on, store stuff on and underneath) garage workbench. The dimensions I am going to need to fill are 30 inches in depth by 80 inches in length. Since this will be the first bench I've built, I guess my questions are basic:

1. Is 80 inches too long for one bench or should I make two and put them together?
2. 4x4's or 2x4's for legs on this type of bench?
3. What would you recommend for a surface height?

Thanks for any suggestions or help you may be able to give me. It's my first house and I want to do it right the first time.

Here are your answers:

1: 80" is a good length for a single bench
2: 4" x 4"s are better - the more strength the better
3: About 36" to 40" height is standard. Here's how to figure. Stand erect. Arms at your
side. Bend your elbow at a 90-degree angle to your body. Measure the distance from the BOTTOM of your forearm to the floor. Typical workbenches are 4" shorter than this distance.

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