Archived Project Plans
IN THIS ISSUE
|The Gateleg Table Plan|
|All American Picnic Table Plan|
|Slanted Gourmet Knife Block Plan|
|Basic Drawer Construction Tips|
|Keep Your Thickness Planer Running Smoothly|
|Urethane Bandsaw Tire|
|Find A Shopsmith Woodworking Academy Near You|
|National Woodworking Academy in Dayton, OH|
|Online Accessory Catalog|
|Request Printed Accessory Catalog|
|Links Worth Visiting|
|Free Woodworking Tips|
All Rights Reserved
The Gateleg Table
x 36” of oval tabletop that folds out of the way to just 5”
x 24” when needed
2: Prepare remaining stock. Use 3/4” stock for the main stretcher (E) and 5/8” stock for the remaining pieces. (See the Bill of Materials)
3: Glue-up the tabletop (L) and set it aside to dry. We started by preparing adjacent edges on the jointer. We then used the Shopsmith Biscuit Jointer with #10 biscuits to hold everything in alignment while the glue dried. As an option, you could eliminate the need for biscuits by using a set of 24” Double Bar Clamps to hold the boards in alignment while the glue dries. We then added battens (K) to provide additional strength.
4: Cut the mortises in parts A,B & D for the stretchers. First, mark
off the square sections on each leg, then the locations for the mortises
(don’t forget that each piece of turning stock is 1” longer
than its intended finished length).
5: Cut the stretchers F,G,H & J to size. Use a Dado set-up or a Tenoning Jig to create the tenons on the ends. Important note: All tenons are 1/8” smaller in width and height than the stock, except for the tenons on the upper stretchers (F & H). Take an extra 1/4” off the tops of these tenons (3/8” total). Doing so will prevent the tenons from splitting the tops of the turned legs (since they’re so close to the ends).
6: Turn parts (A,B,C & D). Accurately mark your turning centers on
the ends of each piece. Use a soft mallet to avoid damaging your centers. Begin the turning process by roughing-to-round a 2” long section
at the center of what will be the long tapered section. Sand it lightly,
then install a Lathe Steady Rest to keep your long spindles from whipping during the turning process.
7: Cut off the excess at the top (and bottom, if you so planned) of each turning and sand the ends square on the Disc Sander. See drawings for accuracy.
8: Cut and sand each turned piece to the exact, same length. If you have a MARK V, you can ensure that each leg is EXACTLY the same length by using your Disc Sander with the quill feed feature – and your Extension Table with the MARK V Rip Fence as a back-up.
11: Dry assemble all leg assemblies, checking for fit and squareness. If the fit is OK, disassemble, then re-assemble using glue.
12: Cut tabletop (L) into the three parts. Joint the adjacent edges of the leaves, then clamp all three parts back together. Mark and cut the mortises for the hinges, using a hand-held or router set-up, followed by a chisel. If you use the latter, a Router Corner Chisel will make easy work of squaring the corners of hinge mortises made with a router. Mount the hinges.
13: Draw an
ellipse on the bottom of the tabletop (see detailed tabletop drawing below
for ellipse-drawing string length and pivot positions). We’ve provided
simple instructions below for drawing ellipses. Secure a temporary batten on the underside of the tabletop to hold everything
rigid, then cut out your ellipse on the Bandsaw or Scroll Saw, being sure
to keep “proud” of your lines as you cut…so you can
finish sand the edges to their final shape, using your Disc Sander.
14: Shape the edge of the tabletop,
using your Shaper set-up with a 1” dia. collar and the 3/16” Bead &
Cove Cutter. Cut from below
and make at least two passes. Make sure that at least 1/8” of the
top is riding against the collar during your final pass. Use your Floating Extension Table and Telescoping Legs for outboard support
if you have a Model 510 or 520 MARK V. If you have a Model 500 or 505
MARK V, we suggest that you support the front edge of your worktable with
a Table Support Leg or custom-cut
wooden leg to prevent worktable tipping during operation. Once you’ve finished forming the edge, remove the temporary batten.
16: Finish sand and apply the
finish of your choice. Assemble the gatelegs and tabletop to the frame
with screws. Enjoy !