woodworker (except SMITTY, of course) has ALL the answers. From time-to-time,
everyone hits a snag, trying to figure out some sort of in-shop problem.
Don't worry, SMITTY can help. Just use the special e-mail link to send your questions to SMITTY. He’ll do his best to get back to you soon, with the answers to those questions.
Here are the questions . . . and SMITTY’S answers for this issue!
If you're having a problem
setting-up, aligning or maintaining your Shopsmith equipment, you should
contact Shopsmith's Technical Support Staff (NOT Smitty).
The 1/16" bandsaw blade is the most sensitive to back-out...and for tracking problems. I suspect that there is not enough tilt on the upper wheel. One of two things has happened: If this is a new machine, it was not adjusted properly. If it is an old machine (as I suspect) there can be a couple problems.
First, the bearings in the upper wheel may be worn. Test for this by removing the blade and gently wiggling the upper wheel. If it feels loose, the bearings are bad and the upper wheel needs to be replaced.
Second, the axle in the upper arm that supports the upper wheel no longer sits at the proper angle. Over time, with the constant tension of the blade, the angle of the axle is reduced by a slight amount. The arm actually twists very slightly and takes a set. This can be corrected by removing the blade, grasping the wheel at the top and bottom and pulling the bottom of the wheel out while pushing the top in toward the frame with LIGHT pressure.
To test whether this twisting was effective, lay a straightedge on the upper wheel. There should be a 1/8" space between the straight-edge and the top edge of the lower wheel. If there is less than the above space, repeat the twisting procedure above. If there is more than a 1/8" space, flex the wheel in the opposite direction until the proper space is obtained. If this happens again it can be adjusted again but this is a sign that the arm has become weak. Plan to replace the upper arm soon.
Regarding the Cool Blocks: There is no gap between the Cool Blocks and the blade. They are designed to run in contact with the blade. With the blade centered in the blocks, tighten the Cool Blocks in place while gently squeezing them against the blade. The friction of the blade rubbing against the blocks makes a custom seat to guide the blade.
Face Shield Static
Well, now...that's an interesting picture! If you had terminal lugs on your neck (ala Frankenstein), you could simply ground the mask to your neck and you'd only have to run the wire a short distance. Just kidding, Jerry.
A web search produced this spray-on, anti-static product. Check it out. Good luck. Thanks for the chuckle !
Your Jointer Knives
If you have a Shopsmith MARK V, there is an attachment available to sharpen your Jointer knives on the MARK V. It is designed to be used with our Conical Sanding Disk . You can find these products (and photos of them) in Shopsmith's On-Line Woodworking Catalog. With this fail-safe system, you'll only have a little over $100 invested and the sharpening process will be fairly simple. Your only other option is to have them professionally sharpened by a local sharpening service.
The correct angle for Multi-Purpose cutting using Shopsmith Jointer Knives is about 45-degrees.
Hollow Ground is when you sharpen against a circular grinding wheel, creating a concave edge. Although many claim you can get a sharper edge this way, it is a far less durable edge.